Vinous – 98
The 2008 Comtes de Champagne is every bit as stunning as it has always been. The first signs of aromatic complexity are starting to appear, while there is a bit less of the youthful austerity that was present at the outset. It will be interesting to see how the 2018 continues to develop. It is certainly not the austere, bracing Champagne it was a few years ago. Hints of apricot, slate, mint, crushed rocks and light tropical accents build into the salivating finish.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2048
JancisRobinson.com – 19
Pale copper colour. Tiny bead. Lots of toasty autolysis on the nose and then masses of very crystalline acidity on the palate with a tiny bit of smoky reduction. Really energetic. Should be a great start to our JR.com Christmas dinner and, I hope, a good lead-in to La Grande Dame 1990. Dry finish and super-zesty. Lemon zest at that. Complete and gorgeous. Very long and clean. Beautiful balance.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030