Robert Parker – 89
â€This is as dark as the vintage gets here,â€ Jeremy Seysses points out about the color of his 2007 Charmes-Chambertin, whose cedar and brown spice aromas are allied on the palate to more obvious tannin than possessed by other wines in its collection. Licorice and cherry pit bitterness, spice, and emphatic, bright-edged dark berry fruit all inform a long finish but I’m skeptical that the extraneous sense of tannin here will wear off, or at least be worth waiting out. By negative example, this wine seems to confirm Seysses insistence that 2007 needed a light fermentative touch. I’d suggest drinking it over the next 3-4 years. The Dujac 2008s were not racked until last December, and bottling took place January through March. â€œThe malic acid numbers were high-ish, but not significantly higher than in, say, 2006 or 2001,â€ says Jeremy Seysses in an effort to explain what he admitted were â€œfor us, excessively late malos. I have a feeling it was a lack of nutrients that were wash out,â€ he continues, since, after all, â€œit rained a lot in 2008â€ with, he adds, â€œpoor fruit set proving to be the vintage’s saving grace. I think we would actually have had less to harvest (i.e. worth keeping) if we had had a better fruit set. There was rot, but can you find it in any of the wines? That’s a credit to how far Burgundy has come along in terms of sortingâ€ (which Dujac does exclusively in the vineyard, not on sorting tables ” the name of their U.S. importer ironically notwithstanding). â€œI didn’t love my lack of options in 2007,â€ says Seysses of the preceding season, â€œso we picked early ” earlier even than in 2003.â€ In vinification â€œwe decided not to force too much, and just to keep it charming,â€ which is exactly how I thought the wines turned out. â€œAt Domaine Dujac, we’re never been that attached to deep color, so we’re quite tolerant (in that regard), and the least thing we wanted to do was make hard wines. I de-stemmed more (than usual, or than in 2008). The fruit felt fragile, so in barrel I kept the wines under a bit more free sulfur than usual, which reinforced their lightness.â€ Seysses opines that 2007 was not a year in which old selections displayed their overall superiority to clones, because â€œif yo(‘re Pinots) were riper earlier, you were ripe while it was raining,â€ whereas in 2008 you could scarcely get too much ripeness. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014
Vinous – 90+
Medium red. Reticent aromas of red fruits lifted by spicy oak and a note of rose petal. Tactile and pliant but a bit simple and inexpressive today. Offers enticing sweetness but this is closed and in need of patience. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins.
JancisRobinson.com – 16.5
Firmer and more sinewy than the average Charmes with a little bit of new oak in evidence. Not yet harmonious. A bit tough yet without enormous density. A bit unknit in Nov 2008.
Anticipated maturity: 2013-2022