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Mature Ex-domaine Loire
Moulin Touchais age their wines for a minimum of 10 years before release — and these are white wines!
This estate dates back to 1787, and it is still family-owned and operated after eight generations. Perhaps their most notable feature is their collection of properly aged Coteaux de Layon. After WWII (during which the cellars were bricked up to protect the wines), this practice developed by accident: the economy was struggling, and wine sales were down, so the bottles just kept aging; only when the economy began to recover did they fully realize the benefits of this extended aging, at which point it became standard practice.
Part of the reason these wines can age for so long is that they harvest some grapes very early when acidity is at its highest and the rest very late when complexity is at its highest. Another factor is that they retain extremely low yields, prioritizing concentration. The Loire is the greatest area to find these long-lived wines because Chenin Blanc's aging potential isn't as well known as Riesling's.Although exact production levels aren't accessible, Wine Spectator reported only 1,750 cases in 1997; other CellarTracker comments indicate as few as 250 cases in various vintages. Regardless, it is well known that Moulin Touchais sells anything that does not fit their criteria in quantity.
Why we like it:
• All are ex-domaine.
• The best Chenin Blanc can compete with Riesling for ageing potential.
• Many are quite approachable now.
